Elevators - Jan 2016 - Jul 2016 (COMPLETE)

Elevator Assembly - Jan 10, 2015

Spent a little time today getting familiar with parts to the elevator.

Here are two ribs for the elevator.  They come out of the box attached like the one on the left.   I used the band saw to separate into two pieces.     

There are eleven sets of these ribs that need to be separated.  The corners will need trimmed to a slight radius and, of  course, all edges de-burred nice and smooth:)

These are the tip ribs that will be on the outboard portions of the left and right elevator assemblies.  I clecoed the pieces to these parts together and match/final drilled the holes.

January 12, 2016

Worked a few hours today on the elevator and trim tab trailing edge ribs, and the trim tab skins.   

The ribs are cut out of a foam block supplied in the kit and will later be secured in place using Pro-seal. 
The plans say to cut the scaled drawings from the plans and then glue to the foam blocks with spray adhesive.   I didn't want to destroy the page from the plans so I took it to kinkos and made an exact size/scale copy using the self service copy machines.
I made the initial cuts using the band saw and did the final shaping with sand paper.

The trim tab skins have a small amount of trimming that has to be done.  I used hand shears to make the initial cut on the close-out tabs.  

Using a file to final shape the close-out tab.

January 19, 2016

Today I continued the initial assembly of the elevator.   There were a couple of holes to enlarge and some minor shaping/trimming required.  The pieces were then clecoed together.

These two holes on the forward spar of the left elevator needed to be enlarged to  5/8" and 3/8".  

I used a step-bit (unibit) and drill press to enlarge the holes in the spar.
Here's the holes after final drilling.  A snap bushing will be inserted in the 5/8" top hole for a wire run to the trim servo.
The top and bottom skins on the left elevator have a cut out that will enclose the trim tab.   Here the skin must be bent to form a close-out tab when the upper and lower skins are joined.
One of the close-out tabs after bending.    

This is the initial assembly of the left elevator including; the forward and rears spars, the ribs and the mounting brackets that will house the trim servo.   The "cut-out" on the trailing edge is where the trim tab will be located.  

This is the right elevator assembly with the lower skin in place.

January 20, 2016

The RV-14 has one trim tab for pitch trimming located on the trailing edge of the left elevator.   The trim tab is connected to the elevator with a "piano" type hinge.   Today I clamped the forward part of this hinge in place and match drilled holes to match the rear spar of the elevator.   The aft part of the hinge is match drilled to the forward spar of the trim tab.    
I also assembled and clecoed in place the tip rib assemblies to the outboard sections of the left and right elevators.

This is the forward part of the hinge clecoed and clamped in place for match drilling to the aft elevator spar.   

I added clecos in the holes as I drilled them to keep the hinge in place.

The forward holes are all drilled.  I added the aft part of the hinge just to check for straightness and fit.

This is the aft part of the hinge that will be attached to the forward spar of the trim tab.    Holes from this spar must be match drill to the hinge.

I supported the trim tab spar with a piece of plywood while I match-drilled with a pneumatic drill and #40 bit with drill -stop.   
The aft part of the hinge match drilled and clecoed to the ttrim tab spar.

This is the left tip rib assembly.   There are a few #30 hole that need to be final drilled before  the top skins are put in place.

I was able to get both the left and right tip rib assemblies in place.  

Another view of the left elevator assembly so far.

January 22, 2016

More elevator work today.  I have read from other builders sites the elevator can be a little slower to get going than other components of the empennage kit.   I am finding this to be true as well so far.  There is not necessarily anything harder than the other components, but there does seem to be several small steps to complete.    

I clecoed the top skins and elevator control horns in place. 
The control horns need to be final drilled to #30 holes for riveting later.
There are 12 holes per elevator horn to final drill.  Six on the front spar and six on inboard ribs.  The brass color clecos show the six holes on the forward spar.   

This is the material used for the trailing edges of the elevator and the trim tab.   The thicker edge faces aft.   It will be riveted between the upper and lower skins.    I still need to machine countersink the smaller holes for the dimpled skins and flush rivets.
This is the initial assembly of the left elevator (right is at this stage as well).   Next step is to disassemble, de-burr all holes and edges, dimple,  prime and then reassemble and rivet.   

January 23, 2016

There are a few holes in the rear spar of the left elevator that need to be machine countersunk to accommodate the trim tab hinge.   Note: See mistakes page regarding this step.

These are the holes that needed machine countersunk in the rear spar.  These  holes are  associated with the hinge for the trim tab.  They have to be machine countersunk instead of dimpled (like the rest of this spar) because the hinge needs to be flush on the bottom flange of the spar.   The flange thickness here is about the minimum for machine countersinking.   However, because this flange will be "sandwiched" between the skin on top and the hinge on the bottom, it is within limits.   
Here's the setup I used to start the countersinking.  I only got it close with the drill (didn't want to get too deep) and then finished with the hand tool below.
Countersink bit in de-burr tool.
I took a short break from de-burring to fabricate a piece for the trim servo.   The pieces for this part were pre-stamped, but attached and needed to separated.  I used a band saw and then smooth the edges with a file and sandpaper.   

Here's the parts for the trim servo push-rod after trimming and de-burring.
The holes for this part needed machine countersunk on both sides for double-flush riveting.

January 25, 2016

I decided to build one elevator at a time. The plans have you construct them simultaneously.   I had some nice weather and needed to prime, so I only had time to get one elevator ready.   I disassembled (un-clecoed) and de-burred the parts to the right elevator.    De-burring is very time consuming and pretty boring.   You just have to accept it as an important part of the build and get-er done:)

Here's some of the tools I used to deburr the right elevator.    I also used a die grinder an bench grinder with scotch brite wheels.   

January 26,2016

Today was prime day.   I haven't built an indoor paint booth yet, so I'm dependent on the weather for a good day to prime.   Since it's January, I have to prime when i get the opportunity.   Only had the right elevator ready to go, so I got it done today.

Here's the parts to the right elevator before priming.   
..and after priming.   
Here is the top skin for the right elevator.  This is the inside part of the skin.  The blue tape is marking off the areas where  the trailing edge ribs (the ones constructed earlier out of foam blocks) will be placed. These ribs will be secured using proseal sealant.  Their locations were not primed and will be "scuffed" to promote good adhesion.

Skin after priming and blue tape removed.   

February 2, 2016

Today I cut the elevator trailing edge pieces to the proper lengths and machine countersunk the rivet holes.   I also started dimpling some of the elevator components.
The rivet holes for the trailing edge piece have to be machine countersunk on both sides.  Also, the countersunk holes need to be 90 degrees to the surface of the trailing edge.  Since the piece is tapered, something has to be done to ensure the countersinking bit on the drill press is perpendicular to the surface.   When I did this for the rudder trailing edge piece I used a procedure similar to one given in the plans.  This time, since I had some extra trailing edge material (don't ask why:), I stacked the pieces on top of each other with the opposite sides facing up.  This provided a flat surface the required 90 degree countersink.    

Here's the setup we came up with.   We used piece of shelving track and plate  steel to form a "channel" for the trailing edge pieces to fit in between.   Only the top piece is being countersunk with this setup.    Once the holes on the top are drilled, I reset the setup to drill the other side.

Since this piece is "sandwiched" between the top and bottom elevator skins, the rivet holes can be  countersunk slightly deeper.   Here's a rivet showing the depth I was looking for.  Probably could go a little more, but I get paranoid with the countersinking and don't want to over do it and get too deep.  

To get the correct depth of the countersunk rivet holes, I used the adjustment mechanism on my drill press.  This worked out well.  When I countersunk the holes for the rudder, I used a micro-stop countersink cage.   I liked the drill press adjustment better.  I seemed to get more consistent and better depth control. 

Here's the piece for the right elevator in place.
Also, since I try and dimple after priming when possible, I started dimpling some of the interior elevator components.

Here's the elevator components before dimpling.   

To dimple this piece, I used the DRDT-2.

I used the hand squeezer to get the outer ribs here.

The interior ribs are in two pieces and were easy to dimple using the hand squeezer.  Probably could have used the DRDT-2 on these as well.

February 3, 2016

Continued dimpling parts for the right elevator today.  Got everything done except the skins.   Also got to do some riveting on the outboard elevator ribs.

Neighbor Scott continues to be a big help with the project.  His consistency has definitely promoted him from an apprentice helper to journeyman airplane builder:)  Unfortunately, his wife has added a bathroom re-model to his "to-do" list and his airplane building may be put on the back burner for awhile.   I'm sure there will be plenty left to do with the RV-14 when his bathroom project is complete:)  I'm on thin ice myself for a kitchen re-model:(  Here Scott uses the DRDT-2 to dimple the rivet holes in the flanges of the elevator front spar. 

The plans advise that a yoke may need to be modified in order to dimple the rear spar on the elevator.   You can see the flanges on the spar are not at 90 degrees and could present a problem for some squeezer yokes.   
This is the yoke that I have and it did not require modification.   
 We also got to do start some riveting for the elevator today.   There are two pieces to the outer ribs that need riveted together.  We once again chose "old faithful" and used the C-frame to back-rivet these rivets.
There are sixteen #4 rivets used to secure these two pieces together.  Two are flush rivet heads and the other fourteen are universal head.  (Update: After this photo was taken, I decided to reverse the rivet direction for these rivets.  I put the manufactured heads on the inboard rib.   The inboard rib will be partially visible when the elevator is complete and the rounded heads will look nicer and easier to paint.)

Here's the inboard portion of the rib showing the manufactured heads of the rivets.  The clecos are attaching a narrow piece of skin that will later be attached to the two ribs with rivets.   I was just testing for fit.

This is the outboard elevator rib showing the shop heads of the rivets.  This rib is where the fiberglass fairing will attach later on.      

February 5, 2016

Today I riveted the inboard and outboard ribs to the elevator spar.

Here's the inboard and outboard elevator ribs clecoed to the spar.  The trailing edge is facing up in this picture.

I set the universal head rivets for these ribs with the hand squeezer.   
Right elevator outboard rib riveted in place.
That's it for the day.   

February 12, 2016

I had a few small parts that needed primed before I continued assembly of the right elevator.  I recently added an airbrush sprayer to my priming process inventory and these parts were a good test.

This is the airbrush I decided to give a try.   I have read on other builders sites they find these very useful for small parts or when priming just a few parts and don't need to mix a larger batch of primer. 

Here's the airbrush with primer in the cup.    
The sprayer worked out great on these parts for the elevator.    One cup primed these parts front and back.

With the parts primed, I continued assembly of the right elevator.   First I riveted the hinge reinforcement plates to the elevator front spar.

This is one of the hinge reinforcement plates before riveting to the right elevator spar.    
I once again used the C-Frame  to back-rivet the reinforcement plates to the spar.   
This is the forward part of the front spar for the right elevator.  The reinforcement plate is on the aft side of the spar.  .I decided to put the shop heads of the rivets on this side of the spar.  I did this because typically, the manufactured heads of the rivets are placed on the thinner material/part being added to the larger.  It seems to keep the smaller piece from getting "pushed" apart when riveting.   These rivet heads will be partially visible when the leading edge of the elevator skin is in place and the leading edge rolled.  While I would have preferred to have the manufactured (domed) head on this side, I decided to use the preferred method.   Probably not a big deal in this particular case though.   
This is the plate in place on the aft side of the spar.   Still a few more rivets to install.  The manufactured rivet heads can be seen here.   This area will be enclosed under the skins and not visible when the elevator is complete.

February 13, 2016

Finished up the rivets on the reinforcement plates and added the nut plates. 

Reinforcement plate with nut plate installed on the aft side of the elevator spar.
Here's the forward side of the elevator spar.  Later, a threaded eye-bolt will screw into this hole/nutplate and attach the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer.  
Full view of the elevator spar showing reinforcement and nut plates..

February 13, 2016

Today I riveted the right elevator counterbalance skin to the tip ribs.  I also primed the interior of the rudder horn tubes and attached them to the elevator assembly with clecos.    

This is the counterbalance skin for the right elevator.   The blue tape covers hole that do not get rivets and will later be used to attach the fiberglass tip fairings.
I used the pneumatic squeezer to set the majority of the rivets that attach the counterbalance skin.  There were a few that I set with a hand squeezer due to their close proximity to rivets that were already in place for the tip ribs.   
This is the outboard section of the right elevator showing the counterbalance skin in place.  Later, lead weights will be attached to the inner and outer sections of the forward portions of these tip ribs.

Inner section of the tip rib and attached counterbalance skin.  

Progress so far on the right elevator assembly.
The elevator rudder horns are made of steel and come powder coated from Van's.  However, I noticed the interior portions of the tubes were bare metal.   Although probably not required, I wanted to apply some type of protection to these areas.  I did some research and discovered several options to accomplish this.   I narrowed the options down to boiled linseed oil and Akzo primer I am using for the rest of the parts.   Boiled linseed oil has been used by many builders for years with great results.  However, since I had the primer on hand, I decided to give it a try.    

Here's the elevator horns showing the interior potions of the metal tubes that I wanted to apply some type of protection.   I decided to try using Akzo primer.  To prep the metal, I used flexible sand paper to scuff the interior tubes as best I could.  I then flushed with MEK and basically poured a small amount of primer in the tube.   I rotated the parts as the primer dried to get good coverage and prevent puddling.   When it looked like the primer was getting thick, I poured out the excess.   The interior tube appears to have a good coating of primer, but I'm not sure how well it will hold up long term.
The right elevator horn attached with clecos and ready for rivets.

February 18, 2016

Installed the rivets for the rudder horn.  I read on some other builders websites the rivets for these horns did not align properly with the holes in the spar and inner rib.   While it is a very tight fit and it did appear initially that I may have the same issue, everything worked out fine.  First I installed the clecos on the spar side.  I then use a small drift pin to apply a very "small" amount of pressure to align the holes on the rib side.   I installed clecos in all holes except the two furthest from the corner.   I placed rivets (unset) in those two holes just to make sure everything was perfectly aligned.   Clecos sometimes do not line holes up as precisely as the properly sized rivet.  There was no undue stress or force on the clecos or rivets once everything was in place.   I then set the rivets beginning with the two  furthest from the corner on the spar side using the squeezer.  Once those were set, I alternated from spar to rib working my way to the corner.  The rivets turned out great.

I used the pneumatic squeezer to set th rivets for the rudder horn.   While riveting , I used small c-clamps along with the clecos to ensure a tight fit between the horn and spar/rib.

This is the shop side of the six rivets on the back side of the spar for the rudder horn.  
Next, I moved to the right elevator ribs and riveted them to the rear spar.   The ribs are still in two pieces and only the lower half is used at this point.

The lower part of the rib halves are clecoed then riveted to the rear spar.
The pneumatic squeezer work out great on these rivets.
Two rivets per rib half to attach to the rear spar.

February 19, 2016

Today I started the process of riveting the right elevator lower skin to the rear spar and lower rib halves.   

Lower elevator skin clecoed to the rear spar and lower rib halves.
This is the rear spar showing the rivets that attach the lower elevator skin.   The  rear spar needs to be secured to the work bench while riveting or it will move around.  The rear spar channel is pretty narrow and I didn't have clamps that fit perfectly.  These worked ok, but I had to keep adjusting to keep in place.
I used this tungsten bucking bar to buck these rivets.   There is not much room on the inner portion of the spar, but this bucking bar worked well.
Once I completed the riveting on the rear spar, I started attaching the lower rib halves.  These are back riveted and go pretty easily and quickly.

Here we have the flush rivets held in place with rivet tape.
The skins are flipped over and Scott is back-riveting the lower rib halves in place.
This is the back-riveting bar we used.   It is mainly used in the c-frame when back-riveting, but can be used with a rivet gun as well.   The black plastic piece is spring loaded and holds the material tight as the metal portion of the bar sets the rivet. 
Here's the back-rivet setup we used .  The flat steel plate is under the skin and not visible in the picture.  You have to be very careful to remember to move the plate when you move to the next row of rivets.   I came close a couple of times.  That would make for a terribly damaged rib/skin and likely not salvageable.  
Lower skin for the right elevator with lower ribs riveted in place.

February 19, 2016

 Today I back-riveted the upper rib halves to the elevator upper skin.   
This is the upper rib halves in place ready for back-riveting to the elevator upper skin.  

The upper rib halves..riveting complete.

February 20, 2016

With the ribs in place on the upper and lower elevator skins, it was time to join the skins.

The rivets that attach the skins to the elevator rear spar require a special bucking bar.  I bout this from an online  tools supplier.   In the right elevators case, the rivets joining the lower skin to the rear spar were set using a bucking bar (see above post).  However, when the skins are joined, the only way to access and set the upper rivets is to use this special bucking bar.  
This is how the special bar is used to set the rivets on the rear spar.  My RV builder friend Mark stopped by today and was a big help with this procedure.    It can be done solo, (I did a few) but definitely easier with a partner.   This process looks a little intimidating, but it actually isn't that bad.  
Here's the special bucking bar inside the elevator skins.   Can't be seen in the picture, but the rivets on the upper flange of the rear spar are the ones being set.  The lower rivets were set prior to the skins being joined together.   

After the skins are riveted to the rear spar, it's time to move inside the elevator assembly and rivet the upper and lower rib sections together.

This is looking inside the elevator assembly.   Blind rivets (pop rivets) are used to rivet the upper and lower rib pieces together.  

February 21, 2016

The next step is to add the front spar assembly to the upper and lower elevator skins.   

This is the forward spar for the right elevator.  Bind rivets are used to attach the front spar to the interior  ribs.
After setting a few miscellaneous rivets ( a few were not easily accessible, but Van's give good direction), it was time to "closeout" the the inboard and outboard ribs.   Here I'm using the pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets for the inboard rib.

February 22, 2016

Today I riveted the top and bottom elevator skins to the front spar.  There are several rivets so I considered using the pneumatic squeezer.  However, I started with the hand squeezer and just kept going. 

Using the hand squeezer to set the rivets on upper and lower elevator skins to the forward spar. 
Rivets all set.  The skins overhanging the spar in this picture will be "rolled" together later to form the leading edge of the elevator.   
The next step is begin installing the trailing edge piece to the elevator.  The trailing edge can't be closed completely yet because there are six foam ribs that still need to be installed to the aft portion of the elevator.  The plans call for the trailing edge be secured to the lower skin only at this time using the recommended double-face tape and clecos.  After a day or so of "cure" time, the clecos will be removed and the skins can then be opened up enough to add the foam ribs.  

This is the trailing edge piece with the double-sided tape added to both sides.  After 15-20 minutes of set time, the paper on the lower tape will be removed and the trailing edge piece will be affixed to the lower elevator skin.
This is the double-face tape used for this procedure.   Here I'm just showing what it looks like on a piece of paper.  Very thin, but VERY sticky and difficult to remove once applied.    Practice using on scrap before applying to actual part.  Van's use to recommend using "pro-seal" when working with trailing edge pieces, but seems to have converted to the tape instead.  The jury is still out on which people prefer but, in my limited experience, the tape seems to work great.  

Trailing edge with the lower surface adhered to the skin.  Paper on top tape will remain in place until bottom piece is "cured".   
Trailing edge piece in place.  Although, the tape is applied to both sides of the trailing edge piece, only the lower portion is affixed at this time to the lower skin.  After a day or so, the clecos will be removed allowing the skins to be separated so the foam ribs can be set in place.  Also, apparently, this trailing edge piece is different on the RV-14 compared to the other models.  The "thicker" edge is on the aft edge.   Haven't done research yet as to the reason, but sure it will be discussed at some point.     

February 28, 2016

It's been a few day since I put the trailing edge tape in place and adhered the lower surface to the bottom skin.  The tape should be well "cured" now.   The next step is to install the foam ribs that were fabricated in the early steps of the  elevator construction.  The foam ribs are secured in place using pro-seal.  This will be my first real experience using this.  I did use a little when I set the the rudder counter-weight, but that was a very small amount.  
These are the foam ribs that are laced in the trailing-edge of the elevators.    Six are used in the right elevator and only two in the left.   The left elevator has the the trim tab attached, and it uses smaller foam ribs.  
Once the ribs are in place, weights are added to make sure there is good contact with the ribs and skins.   I wasn't able to get any pictures while I was installing the foam ribs with the pro-seal.   I was working alone and I was trying to work quickly before the pro-seal started setting up.  

The plans don't call for it yet, but I went ahead and pulled the protectant paper from the  upper surface of the trailing edge tape and "set" with clecos.   I did this because I wasn't sure that I would have enough room to pull the paper off with the ribs glued in place.    Guess it would work though since that what the plans call for.  This method seemed to work well though.

Everything in place and ready to cure for a few days.

February 29, 2016

Since I decided to build the right elevator first, It is now time to start the left elevator and trim tab.  The basic construction will be the same as the right, but the left does include the trim tab.  Also, the trim tab servo is located inside the left elevator and includes some mounting hardware associated with that.

The first thing I did with the right elevator was a "re-do" of a step I did earlier (see mistakes page).   This is where the aft elevator spar gets countersunk tol accommodate the dimpled top skins later.  This spar is the minimum thickness for machine countersinking and I felt I got them a little too deep the first time.   This time around I used the same method as the first, I just made the countersink less deep.   I used a small variable speed drill with the countersink bit to make the initial cut.   I left the rivet slightly proud and finished up by hand with the de-burr tool.

Finishing up the countersink by hand with the de-burr tool.

This is what I ended up with.  The rivet is just "very" slightly recessed below the  surface to accommodate the  dimpled skin.    I have definitely learned in the short time I have been building to be VERY carful when machine countersinking!    In most cases, very few ways to correct these mistakes.  

March 31, 2016

Well....I had a little set back since my last update.   I was in the final steps of finishing up the right elevator when I did something I wasn't completely satisfied with.  It occurred after I installed the six foam ribs in the aft portion of the trailing edge of the elevator.   As shown in the steps/pictures above, these foam ribs are cut to shape using a template supplied in the plans.   The ribs are then installed between the top and bottom skins using proseal.  The plans say don't exceed 1/32" inch of proseal when installing the ribs.   Long story short, after I installed the ribs using the proseal, I added weights to the skins per the plans to ensure good contact while the proseal cured.    When I removed the weights, I noticed "ridges" in the skins where the ribs were located.   These "ridges" also formed "valleys" between the ribs.   These "ridges" and "valleys" were very slight and probably not an issue in any way but I just didn't like it.    
The cause of this issue was probably a combination of trimming the foam blocks slightly larger than the template and using more than the recommended 1/32" of proseal. 
This is the issue that I wasn't happy with.   The stickies with numbers show the six "valleys" created by the over-sized ribs under the skins.  
This shows the depth of one of one of the "valleys".  There were six of these on the aft portion of the elevator.   

Another view of the wavy skins.
Again, I don't think this issue would have caused any structural or controllability problems later on, but I just didn't like it.    I had been very pleased with the quality of workmanship on the elevator up to this point and hated to go out on a bad note.   
It was a tough decision, but I decided to order new parts and build another right elevator.   I am now in the final stages of the rebuild and so far everything has gone very well.   I cut the foam blocks today..making sure they are exact this time!:).   I will install them in the next couple of days and hopefully have a completed right elevator shortly thereafter.  

While I was waiting on parts for the replacement elevator, I decided to go ahead and rivet the trailing edge of the "bad" elevator.  This will be good practice for when I do the replacement.   

I didn't use the process for riveting the trailing edge as described in the plans.   I decided to use the same basic idea that I used for the rudder trailing edge.   I used a piece of cold rolled flat steel as a back rivet plate.   I drilled holes in the plate steel every other rivet to allow the trailing edge to be secured with clecos.    Because of the thickness of the plate steel and the elevator trailing edge, the clecos were too short to make it thru the material and were unable to "clamp".  I ended up countersinking the back side of the plate steel just enough to allow the clecos to function properly.

Because of the shape of the trailing edge, the plate steel needed to be elevated to match the angle.   Also, since the trailing edge piece is tapered with the thicker portion on the aft edge, the plate steel can only be placed under the aft portion of the tailing edge as shown here.

April 10, 2016

I haven't updated this site in a few weeks, but I have been working on the "replacement" right elevator.    I basically followed the same procedures as I did for the "original" elevator...except for the trailing edge ribs!    Actually, today, I prosealed those foam ribs in the replacement right elevator.   Looks like everything went together very nicely!  I have weights on the aft section of the elevator now and will remove in a few days.  Hopefully I'll have a nice, flat,..non-wavy skin!     

The following pictures show the construction of the "replacement" right elevator.   

This is aft side of the front spar of the right elevator showing the nut plate and doubler.   Probably overkill, but I had my airbrush out for something else, so I sprayed these with some primer.   This portion is on the inside of the skins and will not be accessible when elevator is complete.

I didn't get any pictures installing the foam ribs with the proseal.    Tough to get pictures of this step while working alone  with the proseal.   Hopefully I will get some when performing this step on the left elevator.

Aft skins of the elevator with weights in place while proseal for the foam ribs cures.   
 After the  proseal has cured for a few days, there are a few rivets on the inner and outer ribs that need to be installed and then the trailing edge will be riveted.  I will use the same process for the trailing edge that I used on the original right elevator.         

April 11, 2016

While waiting for the proseal to cure on the right elevator, I was able to get all the parts for the left elevator primed today.   I have been working off and on for all the prep required for these parts for the last few weeks.

Here's most of the parts for the left elevator.    Not shown are the skins and the pieces for the trim tab.

April 12, 2016

Today, I continued working on the left elevator.   My normal process is to prime the parts and then dimple.  So, with all the parts for the left elevator and trim tab primed..it was time to dimple.    Following the plans, I dimpled the left elevator counter balance skins and the left top and bottom skins.  

I'm using the DRDT-2 to dimple the skins for the left elevator.   

April 14, 2016

I completed dimpling the parts for the right elevator and trim tab today.   At this point, the plans concentrate on the assembly of the trim tab.   I think this is a good idea because it will give more practice riveting the "unique" trailing edge that is used on the trim tab and both elevators.   Not a difficult procedure (already practiced on right elevator #1:), but if a mistake is made it would be much easier to re-do the trim tab vice an elevator.  
Another positive step today was that I removed the weights on the "replacement" right elevator and the skins in the aft section were nice and smooth.   No waves due to the "oversized" foam ribs like I had on the first right elevator.    Overall, I'm glad I did the re-build.  
Here's some pics of what I did today:

This is the mounting plate for the trim tab servo that will be mounted inside the left elevator.   There are seven nut plates that need to be riveted to this plate.    Only five are riveted in place at this time.  The nut plates are used to secure an access plate that will be located on the lower skin of the left elevator.    The removable plate will allow access to the trim tab servo.   

Here are the five nut plates riveted in place.   I decided to back rivet these and it worked out ok.    The  access cover  is also shown in this picture.   
The next step was to rivet the trim tab front spar to the lower skin.    Due to the location of these rivets, and since I already had the back rivet tools out,  I back riveted these rivets.   Here is a view showing the back-rivet plate under the center section of the trim tab.   

Here's a view of the un-driven rivets that will secure the trim tab front spar to the lower skin.   The back-rivet plate is in place under this group of rivets.  I started in the center, skipped every other rivet, and worked my way outboard.  

Trim tab front spar riveted to the lower trim tab skin.

Small mistake here.  The plans say to rivet the trim tab horns and lower flange of the spar to the lower skins.   However, it doesn't specify in which order.   I though it would be easier, especially since I was back-riveting, to rivet the spar first.   Unfortunately, when it came time to rivet the trim tab horns, there were a couple of rivets (shown circled in red), in the way.   Not something that really needs specified in the plans, but just shows you have to pay attention and always try and visualize the next few steps.

Here's the the two "problem" rivets after removal.   Rivet remnants can be seen between the trim tab skin and trim tab horns.   

April 15, 2016

I had a couple of hours today to continue work on the trim tab.    I started by riveting the trim tab horn to the trim tab.    I used the C-Frame to set these rivets.    I then scuffed the areas with 150 grit sand paper where the foam ribs will be pro sealed to the trim tab skins.  Also scuffed the area where the trailing edge piece will be secured with the 3M double sided tape.   
After the ribs were pro sealed in place, I peeled the backing off the double sided tape and clecoed the trailing edge together.    I then riveted the top skin and aft section of the trim tab hinge to the forward spar of the trim tab assembly.    I used a hand squeezer to set these  flush head 3/32" rivets.   At this point, the trim tab assembly is placed on a flat surface and weights are placed on the skins to ensure good contact while the pro seal cures.

I primed the area on the lower trim tab skin (anal I know) where the trim tab horn will be riveted in place.    I used the airbrush for this small job.  I only mix an amount of primer about the size of a 35mm film canister (those under 30ish have probably never seen a 35mm canister:).  The airbrush works great and is very easy to set up and clean.

The trim tab horn in place with three out of seven rivets set.

I used the C-Frame to back rivet these rivets.   Could have probably used hand squeezer, but it is pretty tight quarters on the rivets flush head on the horn side.   

Side view of the C-Frame setup.   I have the back rivet kit installed here that easily allows different sets to be used.   Here the extended length lower flush set allows room for the clecos.  

Trim tab horn riveted in place.

Shop head of the rivets that attach the trim tab horn.

Here the foam ribs are in place just prior to pro seal application.   Also in place is the trailing edge piece with the double sided tape applied.   The bottom side of the tape has been "peeled" and clecoed in place.    After proseal is applied,  the top paper will be peeled from the tape and the top skin set in place.  Additional clecos are then added and weights are set on the skins while the proseal sets up.      
 Once again, I didn't get any pictures of the pro seal application process.   I am getting more comfortable with the proseal, but still making a pretty good mess.   I use several paper towels and a few pairs of rubber gloves.  I have read from other builders they recommend wearing several pairs of gloves.  I finally figured out they mean to actually wear several pairs of gloves at once (3 worked for me).  Then as the gloves get sticky and messy, you just remove a pair and you are left with a fresh clean pair.  Kind of like the tear offs motocross riders use on their goggles:)

I will let the pro seal cure for a few days and then move on to riveting the trailing edge.

April 20, 2016

After allowing the proseal to cure for several days, I removed the weights on the skins and prepared to rivet the trailing edge.   I used the same method I used on the "original" right elevator.   I clecoed the trailing edge to piece of flat steel (every other hole) and set the rivets with a small diameter rivet set.  After setting every other hole, I removed the trim tab from the flat steel and used the special rivet sets developed by Avery Tool (think they are now sold by Cleveland Tool), to set the remaining rivets.   

This is the trim tab clecoed to the flat steel for back-riveting.   I placed  rivets in every other hole.
This is the rivet set I used.  I tapered the edges with a grinder to reduce the chance of "smileys".   Following the recommended procedure in plans, I partially set each rivet and then went back and "final set" the shop heads flush to the skin.
This is the top of the trim tab showing the factory flush heads of the rivets.

After setting every other rivet using the rivet gun, I decided to set the remaining rivets using the special  squeezing tool from Avery (now available at Cleveland Tool).  To begin, I used a regular flat seta to partially set each rivet (skipping 3-4 at a time).  I then switched to the special tool to do a final set.   I was very pleased with the results using the special set.    
Overall, I am pleased with the quality of the trim tab.  The trailing edge is straight with no waviness.   However, I did end up with a few small "smileys" on the trailing edge from the rivet gun and set.   Nothing too bad and probably won't even be visible after paint,  especially since they are on the bottom skin of the trim tab.    The rivets set using the special dies turned out great and I think I will use them for the elevator trailing edges.  The benefits to using the flat steel method is that it pretty much guarantees (from my limited experience) a straight, non-wavy trailing edge.
The issue for me however, was that using the rivet gun and set was a little more difficult due to the unique shape of the trailing edge.   The trailing edge is thicker aft and tapers narrower forward.  This makes it necessary to be extremely aware of the the position/angle of the rivet set.  I was trying to be careful, but still ended up with some slight marks on the skins.   

April 22, 2016

With the experience I gained from riveting the trailing edge of the trim tab, it was time to rivet the trailing edge of the "replacement" right elevator.   As I mentioned above, since I liked the results of the squeezed over the back-riveted trim tab rivets, I squeezed all the rivets iornthis trailing edge.   I was happy with the results.

This is the trailing edge of the right elevator.   Here I'm using a hand squeezer with normal flat sets  to partially set the rivets.   I started in the center and worked my way out each side skipping about every 7 rivets.  I then went back to the center and repeated until all the rivets were just partially set.    
This shows one of the rivets just partially set.  You can see that the rivet is not perpendicular to  skin on the lower side.  That is due to the shape of the trailing edge piece as shown above.    It will be "straightened"in the final squeeze using the special "angled" sets.

Here's all rivets partially set.
This is not a great picture, but here's the special "angled" sets being used to final squeeze the elevator trailing edge rivets.  The clip on these sets is used to ensure the angle of both the upper and lower set remains in the proper position.
This shows the upper manufactured head of the trailing edge rivets.

This is the lower side of the skin showing the shop head of the double-flush rivets.   The shop heads of double-flush rivets will not completely fill the dimple.  The description in the plans says the shop heads will look like an "acorn sitting in a hole"...or something to that effect.  

The right elevator trailing edged turned out great using the "squeezing method".
The right elevator is mostly complete.  The leading edge skins still need to be "rolled" and riveted together.  I will wait and accomplish this when the left elevator is ready for that step.

April 25, 2016

With the right elevator mostly complete,  it's time to move to the left elevator.   The majority of the process is about the same as the right elevator except the left includes the trim tab and trim tab servo.    
Again, since most of the build procedures are the same, I will only show a few pictures and notes where needed for the left elevator construction.    
Riveting inner/outer tip ribs

Universal heads of the rivets on the inner tip rib.

Shop rivet heads on outer tip rib.
Hinge reinforcement plate with nutplate clecoed in place.  
The top skin now gets riveted to the rear spar.   The plans say to secure the spar to the workbench using spring clamps.    When I did this step on the right elevator, I couldn't figure out a way to do this using spring clamps due the the thickness of my workbench.  This time, I clamped a thin piece of material to the workbench with a slight overhang and then used spring clamps to secure the rear spar.  Additionally, due to the angle of the flanges of the rear spar, shims are placed under the ribs to maintain the correct angle and prevent deformation when riveting later.

Another view showing rear spar clamped to workbench.   Also, during this step, the trim tab hinge will be riveted to the rear spar.

This is how I riveted the top skins to the rear spar.  I used a tungsten bucking bar with an angled end which fit nicely in the  rear spar "channel".     This is where the clamping is important to keep the spar/skin from moving around while riveting.  

I riveted the trim tab hinge at the same time I riveted the skin/spar in the above picture.    I worked from the center outboard skipping a few rivets and then repeated until all rivets were set.    I used a hand squeezer to set the hinge rivets.     

Shear clip that will later be riveted to the left elevator skin close-out tabs.
Rivets in place and taped in preparation for back-riveting the top skin to the ribs.

"Inside" view of the elevator showing upper rib halves with un-driven rivets in place.   

View of the trailing edge of the left elevator.    Unprimed areas are where the foam ribs all be pro sealed in place.  

Back riveting is pretty simple for these ribs.   The main thing to remember is to MAKE SURE the back rivet plate is in  position under the rivets you are setting.  I understand this is a fairly common occurrence and I came VERY close(finger on rivet gun trigger)  a couple of times myself.   That has a very high potential to badly damage the fairly thin skins, possibly beyond repair.  

May 5, 2016

Started today by back riveting the lower rib halves to the left elevator bottom skin.   Then moved on to rivet the trim servo housing/reinforcement plates to the lower skin.   The trim servo is actually located inside the left elevator.   It is connected to the trim tab using a small "linkage" that was assembled earlier in the elevator section.   

This is the trim servo housing that is located in the left elevator.    I back-riveted these  brackets, reinforcement plates, and nut-plates.  

Exterior view of the trim servo housing.   This view is the bottom skin of the left elevator.

This shows how the top and bottom skins of the left elevator are joined.   The  rib halves that were back-riveted to the skins earlier are "sandwiched" together and will be joined in a later step using blind rivets.

May 6, 2016

Today I joined the upper and lower left elevator halves.   

After I clecoed the ribs together side the elevator, I began riveting the lower skin to the rear spar.   The upper skin was riveted to the spar before the two elevator "halves" were joined.   This is the special bucking bar called for  in the plans.   I used this with good results for the right elevator.  It looks more difficult than it really is.   If you follow the plans, you will do this step for the left elevator first.   That means you will be working with the lower skins instead go the upper like it would be on the right elevator.   Good to practice this technique on a less visible area if a mistake is made.  This riveting technique is only used for a small portion of the left elevator.   The rest of the trailing edge is taken up by the trim tab.

When using the riveting method above, the plans say to place a shim under the elevator assembly to prevent  damaging the trailing edge skin while using the bar.  This shows the shim thickness/position that worked for me.

The portion of the spar/skin riveting for left elevvtorwhere the trim tab will be joined can accomplished using the hand squeezer.    The first few rivets I squeezed on this area had a slight "lean" to them.   I was using a different squeezer yoke than the one picture here and I think it was barely touch the hinge causing the shop head to have the lean.   I switched to my RV friend Mark's  no-hole yoke and problem went away.   Could have partially been user error too with the first yoke, but something to consider.

Left elevator skin to spar rivets coming along.

When the elevator skin.spar riveting was complete, it was time to rivet the interior rib halves together.   blind rivets are used for this.   

The plans indicate the the most aft rivets may be difficult to set.  The give some suggestions to help if you are having trouble.   It is is close quarters in that area, but I was able to set them without too much difficulty.   One thing I did learn however while doing this step on the first "practice" right elevator was that I noticed that I did put some very slight "outy" dents in the skins.  I think without realizing it, I was resting the rivet gun on the skins while I was squeezing.   The dents were barely noticeable, but can be avoided if your careful.   

I was moving right along with the blind rivets until I came to the one shown here  (un-pulled one).   My blind rivet puller would not fit on this rivet without putting a lot of pressure on the skin.   This rib is connected to the trim tab servo housing assembly and this rivet is unique to this rib and no located on the other ribs.   

I remembered reading something in section 5 of the plans describing a procedure to help pull blind rivets in tight locations.    It is basically a piece of trailing edge material used on the rudder.    The rivet puller can then be angled down a bit while the piece of angled trailing edge holds the rivet flush to the rib.  I gave it a try and it worked out pretty well in this situation.    

Here's the blind rivet after pulling using the piece of trailing edge material to help set.

This is the inside view of the rivet that was pulled using the technique from section 5.

This is another view of the trim tab servo housing located inside the left elevator.   Once the elevator is "closed up", the servo will only be accessible from an access plate the will be located on the lower skin.

With all the interior riveting complete inside the left elevator, the next step is to close it up by attaching the forward spar assembly.   Here the front spar assembly is ready to be placed in position for riveting.   

May 9, 2016

My progress slowed down a bit..from my already snails pace:), due to some household chores I was falling behind on.   I did manage to get the majority of the right elevator assembled and riveted.   There are a few rivets during the closeout process that are not easily accessible.   I some time to decide the best way to set these rivets and came up with a plan that worked out well for me.   

Here's an example of a couple of the rivets that can be tricky during the right elevator "closeout".    The two rivets in the back of this picture (round heads), attach an angle bracket to the elevator rear spar.    If you decide to us a rivet gun and bucking bar, then the shop heads would be in the inside and the universal head driven from the outside of the spar.   I really wanted the universal head on the bracket side so I was committed to squeezing them.   
Here's the yoke I used to set these rivets.   The plans have you hold off on a few of the skin rivets to allow access to these rivets.    This worked out well in this situation.   You can see the other rivets used to secure the same bracket to the inboard rib the the elevator.   In that case, I decided to put the universal head on the rib side.   Probably could have put the universal head on the bracket side in that case too, but like the "look" of the round head on the visible inboard rib.    I did make sure to ensure a nice tight fit on the shop head of the rivets on the bracket side.  
These are the two rivets prior to squeezing.   Also note the two rivets on the outboard of the spar in this picture.   They look easy enough to set, but due to the angle of the inboard rib, it was not possible "for me anyway" to get a cupped die on the universal head.  I suppose the rivets could be turned around, but there are disadvantages to that plan as well and it's always preferred to put the factory head on the thinner material.  It also helps to ensure a nice tight fit when squeezing.   The plans indicate that it may be necessary to use a "flat" set on both side of the yoke to squeeze these rivets due to the tight angle.  I did that, but it was still difficult to set these rivets perfectly.  They had a tendency to want to "lean" as they were squeezed.   I set both, But wasn't thrilled with he results, so I drilled on out and tried again.  I basically got the exact same results the second time.   Should have left the original rivet in position.   This is also the "recommendation" in the manual.    Unless the rivet is badly out of shape, it is normally best left alone.  I'm learning to live by that rule more and more:)
This is what I used to set the rivets on the upper and lower skins to the forward spar.   I used the pneumatic squeezer on the right elevator, but these rivets are pretty easy with the hand squeezer.   My rivet squeezing technique with the hand squeezer is improving and think I prefer it over pneumatic.. this week anyway.   One thing I did to help my rivet setting, was to get a stronger pair of reading glasses:).  I had been using a 1.5 magnification and though that was ok.  However, I was at the dollar store and picked up a pair of 3.0 magnification glassed and what a difference!   I can only use them to when working up close, but I love them.  I can see every detail of the rivet during squeezing and my rivet quality has improved as a result!  

May 10, 2016

Today I finished up with a few miscellaneous rivets on the left elevator.  I also installed the trail edge piece to the lower skin using the double side tape.  I used the same procedure I did for the left elevator and it works well for me.   I adhere the tape to both sides of the trailing edge piece and then peel "only" the lower side paper off and stick the piece in place to the "lower" skin.   I then cleo the trailing edge piece in place and let set for a few days (plans say one day, but I have heard longer is better...no idea if true or not).    
Next up is installing the foam ribs (only two in the left elevator) in the trailing edge and then closing up the trailing edge by back-riveting...or squeezing with special die.   I am sticking with latter:)

May 15, 2016

I installed the foam ribs today using proseal.   Those will need to cure a few before I can rivet the trailing edge and a few other miscellaneous rivets on the tip rib.    I also assembled the housing for the trim tab servo.

Foam ribs ready to be installed in the left elevator trailing edge.  There are only two in the left elevator .  The trim tab  will attach in the in "cutout" area shown in the picture.

Here's my setup for mixing proseal.   Proseal is mixed by weight at a ratio of 10:1.  I place the paper plate on the scale and then zero out the weight.   I then add the amount of part 1 (white) I need, followed by the proper amount of part 2 (black).  Example: add 20 grams part 1 to the plate and then add enough part 2 to bring the total weight up to 22 grams to achieve the 10:1 mix ratio.   

The deed is done.   These two ribs went in quickly and easily.    I have found that once mixed, I have about 30 minutes of workable time with the proseal.   It doesn't harden completely in that time, but it does begin to "firm" up and become less workable.   I have read that higher temps will accelerate curing process so your times may vary.   I also read that it may slow down the cure process if you keep the proseal "spread out" and not in a big "blob" after mixing so heat doesn't build up in the material.   

Here's the parts to the trim servo housing. Pretty easy assembly.   Just a few hole to dimple and machine countersink.   
The hole along the outer edge are for the screw that will attach the housing to the bottom of the left elevator.   These hole can be dimpled using dimple dies and hand squeezer.    The six hole on the interior of the cover are used for the mounting brackets for the servo.  Because the flanges of the brackets are so narrow, a dimple die will not fit to dimple those holes.   So, in order to get a flush rivet on the outer plate side, these six holes have to be mechanically countersunk.   I used a drill and debur bit to get the holes close and then finished up with a hand debur  tool.   

Trim housing with servo mounted in place.   I now need to attach pins for a molex connector to these wires on the servo.  

May 25, 2016

I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel for elevator/s construction:)    I don't have pictures, but I riveted the trailing edge of the left elevator using the hand squeezer and the special sets from Avery/Cleveland that I used on the right elevator with good results.  Worked great on the left elevator as well.    Next up, I rolled the leading edge skins for the left and right elevators.   I did this for the rudder and was not really looking forward to this step.  There are several "methods" that builders have developed/used for this step, but I just kept it simple and used the method described in the plans.     I used a 1 inch PVC pipe, gorilla tape,  vise grips and channel locks.   I don't think there is an easy way to accomplish this task.     It takes quite a bit of "working" the skins to even get them close to where they need to be before blind riveting.      

I apply the gorilla tape as shown to the skin that I will be working with.   

I then attach a 1' PVC pipe just slightly longer than the skins so I can get a wrench on the end.    

Here's a skin after after several "rolls" with the pipe.   The skin is not easy to shape.   It will spring back quite a bit even after rolling it almost 180' around the pipe.

When rolling the skin, it seems to work best to push down and roll simultaneously.   This gives the most bend and does "crease" the skin where it "breaks" over the spar.   
This is the bottom skin with the initial bends completed.    Still a ways to go.   The top skin will overlap this skin when the final shaping is complete.  
After much work, here's the skins ready to be riveted with blind rivets.   I use tape to hold everything together while riveting.   I got the bends pretty close, but there is still a slight amount of force require to keep them in position.    If you over bend, the skins won't sit flush together and the blind rivets will not get a good grip on both skins.
Here's the inside view of the skins with the blind rivets in place.  The skins have a nice flush fit .   The rudder had a template to ensure the shape of the rolled edge would match the trailing edge of the vertical stab.   The elevators do not have a template, and I understand some builders have experienced "rubbing" of this rolled edge and the aft area of the horizontal stab.   I plan to make a test fit once I have completed the elevators.   Hopefully no rubbing.   

Outside view of the left elevator leading edge.
July 7, 2016
It's been awhile since my last update.  Household chores, unscheduled vehicle maintenance and a family vacation limited my time on the RV project.
However, I was able to spend the last few days finishing up the elevators.....almost.    

This is the trim tab attached to the left elevator.   I had read from other builder sites that it can be difficult sliding the hinge pin in place that attaches the two pieces of the hinge.  With that in mind,  I tried to keep the hinges together, or at least the pin, when able when riveting the hinge sections to the elevator and trim tab.   Worked out pretty well and the rod slid in place with only minor effort.   
Inboard view of the left elevator and trim tab.   Trim tab horn can be seen here.  For other builders, if you look closely at the trim horn you will notice a lone #3 universal head rivet slightly aft of the hole where the actuator rod will attach.   I'm sure completely unnecessary, but I just felt it "beefed" the whole assembly up just a bit.
Next up were the counterbalance weights for the left and right elevators.  There are four of these weights that get bolted in place in the counterbalance ribs.    Some trimming is required to allow them fit in position.   The plans give the dimensions to be trimmed.  To trim the "ends", I used my band saw and it that worked well.  However, two of the weights, require the raised portion to be trimmed flush to give the weight two flat sides   

After some trial and error using various methods to trim the raised portion of the weight (band saw, file, belt sander) with limited success,  I saw another builders site who went this route.   I used a wood chisel to remove the majority of the material then I just dressed them up using a file and sandpaper.   
Here's the finished product.
This is the inboard view of the left elevator with inside counterweight in place.   

Outboard view of the left elevator with weight in place.
The only thing remaining before I can call the elevators complete is installing the trim servo assembly.    I still need to install pins and molex connector to the wires on the servo motor.   I installed two of the six pins, but I think I may re-do one and maybe both.  The pins are very small (think they are called micro), and the crimping pliers I have may be a little large for the job.   I modified them slightly by grinding them thinner (think I saw on Stein Air Video), but still not sure I have what I need to make a good crimp.

Here's the trim motor assembly with the wires that need the pins attached.    I installed two of the six.  I think one is ok, but the other looks like I crimped the insulation where the wires should have been crimped.   I will try again to get a better crimp on the wire.   I may modify my crimping pliers a little more by grinding them more thin.  This will allow me to crimp the "ears" on the pin for the wire and insulation individually.   
Here's my crimping pliers.  The back side of the crimping portion (see picture below) is where I used my bench grinder to make them slightly thinner (I saw this technique on one of the EAA videos I think).   I may have to grind a little more to get a good crimp on the micro pins.

 July 30, 2016

Well, after a little research and practice, I was able to finish crimping the six pins for the elevator trim servo.   This was my first electrical portion of the build, and it was a bit of a learning curve.   The molex pins/plugs used for this were the "micro" version.   I have read that others have had issues with these as well.   The "micro" pins will only fit into the plugs in one orientation.   There is a note in section 5 of the plans that mentions this, but even with that info, I still needed some practice.   The pins and plugs are very small and I used a magnifying glass and good light to make sure the orientation was correct.  Still, the pins did not just "slide" right in.  It seemed like a very snug fit.  However, with a nice firm/steady push with an eyeglass screwdriver, I was able to get the pins in position.   

Here's the "micro" molex pins crimped to the elevator trim tab servo wires.
Pins in positon in plug.
This this the finished elevator trim tab servo and associated wiring.   I was curious about the requirement for the short "patch" cord.  I wondered why the main "feed" wire from the power source/switch/indicator/etc, couldn't be run directly to the servo plug, but after thinking about it, I think I see the need.   The short cord is an area of the tail section that will be accessible, but maybe not convenient.   If there is ever a problem with the wire in these area, you will only need to replace the "patch" cord and not the whole section of wiring that headed to the forward portion of the plane.   I like the ides of less connections, but I think in this case, it's a good idea.  

July 31, 2016

Today I installed the elevator trim servo.  The servo is located in left elevator and connects via a linkage to the trim tab.    

The primed green plate in the upper part of the photo is the housing cover for the trim tab servo.    The servo motor is connected to the trim tab with a linkage to the trim tab horn.   

Screws secure the servo assembly in position and allow removal in case of required maintenance later.   I tested the operation of the trim tab assembly using a 9 volt "smoke alarm" battery and some short jumper wires to the molex plug.   The two white wires of the wire bundle are the power wires.   To reverse direction of the motor, I just swapped the wires at the battery.   Operation was free and smooth in both directions of travel.

Completed left elevator. 
Left and right elevators completed and stored for future use:).    Horizontal stab is behind the elevators.   

Elevators Complete!